LLAMAS AT THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN

By Joe Durrance            

Up we hiked up, up up!  Our destination was the hidden lodge at the top of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park high above Gatlinburg, Tennessee.    Mt. LeConte Lodge is a rustic, gathering of log cabins for hikers.  The lodge is only accessible by one of several foot paths.  There are no roads only hiking trails lead to the top of Mt LeConte with an elevation of 6593 feet. 

                Late October is a perfect time to enjoy the thrill of ascending the mountain.  With fall leaves already attained their full exposition of colors.   The eight brave RVers, most  ACA members, hiked 5.1 miles on the Alum Cave Bluff trail.

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 The first mile of our trail follows a beautiful babbling brook with cold mountain waters circling around the rocks and boulders.  Each of our several brook crossings afforded the opportunity to enjoy the serene beauty of a mountain stream.  Then the trail gets steeper as up we go!

                We stopped at almost every switchback overlook for one of us to snap pictures of the beauty of the fall foliage.  Looking down on the top of the changing colors of the leaves gave us a spectacular overlook that few get to enjoy.

                We were so fortunate to enjoy two wonderful days of perfect weather for our hike.   This hike being a two day trek.  Ascending up the mountain one day, spending the night at the lodge and descending back again the next day.    It rained both the days before our hike as well as the days after.  But the weather could not have been better on our two day trek.   The 5.1 mile walk took over 4 hours to arrive at the lodge.  A beautiful sight it was for tired hikers.  Finally, a chance to sit down without having to face more uphill grade.

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   The lodge is such unique place!  Even though the lodge has been in operation for decades few people even know if its existence. Because it is only accessible by foot path , no one will accidently drop by.

                The lodge is supplied by Llama (mule) train three times a week.  We saw 7 Llamas resting after transporting supplies to the lodge.   Llamas are used because of the way a Llama puts its foot straight down on the path and not harming the trail as much as a mule or horses would.  The Llamas supply all the linen, food and propane needed to run the bare bones lodge.

It is hard to believe the feast served for our evening meal at this remote mountain top.  Passed around family style was, roast beef, green beans, mashed potatoes with gravy, apple sauce, corn bread and peaches with cookies.  Tea, coffee, hot chocolate was offered to drink.  Wines are at extra cost.

                The morning meal is announced by the cook with the traditional ringing of the ‘chow bell’ scheduled so we had time to return from photographing  the sunrise from the highest peak.   You had better be ready because the breakfast bell is sounded only once.   With pancakes, scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, hash browns, grits, and biscuits with honey or apple butter, coffee and tea. 

                The cabins were not something to brag about.  With only kerosene lamps for light, log bunk beds stacked one on top of the other, a wash basin for fetching your own water and a single straight back chair is the only furnishings in the rooms.   Adequate heat is provided by propane however.    We were visited during the night by a bear searching for any food left unattended on our porch.

                The lodge was also visited that morning by a bear (probably the same one) lured by the smells emitting from the lodge kitchen.  I shall never forget the hilarious sight of our cook chasing the bear from the back door of the kitchen with a cleaver high in hand and throwing rocks at him.  We were told the Park Rangers will have to shoot the bear if he keeps coming back.   Every effort is made to discourage the bear from returning for his own safety.

                By mid morning we were ready to descend the mountain back to civilization.  Seven of us returned down the same lovely trail we ascended the day before.   My son, Jason, age 37, was not quite satisfied without one more challenge, however.  He choose to return via the longer, 6.7 mile, Trillium Gap Trail route which led to the trailhead near the city of Gatlinburg.  As he arrived at the Grotto Water Falls area a bear scrounging for berries showed himself for pictures.

                Hikers were Ray Easter, Jeff and Marsha Bratsburg, Leon England, Jason Durrance, Chuck and Mary VanLoan, and yours truly, Joe Durrance.  Our accent was on Wednesday, October 28, 2009, and returned the next day.   Comments for Joe Durrance, click to email Joe